Garden Path Fermentation Opens Tasting Room, Begins Onsite Production

Official Press Release

Skagit Valley, Washington-based Garden Path Fermentation is now fully operational, making its own products onsite and opening its boutique tasting room, bottle shop, and outdoor beer garden to the public on weekends. The tasting room features a carefully curated selection of guest beer, wine, and cider from their favorite independent, artisan producers around the world. It includes not only a wide range of mixed-fermentation and naturally conditioned cider and beer, but also an extensive selection of natural and minimal-intervention wines, many of which customers would be hard-pressed to find elsewhere in the region.

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Garden Path Fermentation tasting room

The first of Garden Path’s own beer may be available as soon as next month. Their product lineup will ultimately include beer, mead, cider, perry, other fruit wines, and possibly grape wine, all made from local ingredients, using 100% naturally cultivated, native Skagit Valley yeast.

Garden Path Fermentation is located at 11653 Higgins Airport Way, in Burlington, in what’s been deemed the Port of Skagit “Brewery Zone”, which also includes Chuckanut Brewery’s South Nut location, Skagit Valley Malting, Skagit Valley College’s Cardinal Craft Brewing Academy, and the Skagit Valley outpost of Oak Harbor based Flyers Brewhouse and Restaurant.

Garden Path Fermentation was created by Amber Watts and Ron Extract, who came to Washington State from Austin, Texas, where both worked at Jester King Brewery before heading northwest in August, 2016, to start their own venture. They chose the Skagit Valley, nestled between the North Cascades and the Pacific Ocean, due to its fertile soil, abundant natural resources, and temperate climate. Their goal was to start their project in a place where fermentation would require little temperature intervention and most, if not all, ingredients could be sourced hyperlocally. Resources like Skagit Valley Malting and numerous generations-old family farms make it possible to create truly local products with a distinct sense of place.

From the time they set out to start their new project, Watts and Extract’s ultimate goal has been to build to a destination farm brewery, cidery, meadery, winery, and someday, farm-to-table restaurant, where consumers can experience the entire production process from seed to glass. As soon as they chose Washington as their new home, they began searching for a location where they could execute this vision, but the combination of zoning and land use restrictions, water availability, wastewater management, and a variety of other factors made a suitable property seemingly impossible to find. Fortunately, the Port of Skagit, which serves as an economic development engine for the county and had been a strong supporter of Watts and Extract’s vision from the outset, was able to offer a site that would allow Garden Path to get started and establish itself, while continuing to look for the perfect farm setting for the next phase of its development.

The Garden Path team spent the last several months renovating its current space, under the direction of in-house project lead Jacob Grisham, a licensed general contractor and former chef with an extensive cidermaking background. The building, prior to being used for records storage by the Port of Skagit, was home to Coast Lumber, which provided the local Douglas fir that was used to make the bar, window counters, large communal tables, benches, and shelves in Garden Path’s tasting room.

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The GPF and Chuckanut teams on the first Garden Path brew day

Garden Path’s brewing process thus far has involved their brewers working with the brewers at Chuckanut, their next-door neighbors, to produce wort with malted and raw grain from their fellow neighbors at Skagit Valley Malting, and Pacific Northwest hops. They add the wort to Garden Path’s native yeast culture in stainless steel totes and transport it up the road to Garden Path for fermentation. With Chuckanut’s proximity and excess capacity on the wort-production side, and the highly congenial relationship between the two companies, Garden Path was able to avoid having to put in its own brewhouse and to focus its resources wholly on fermentation.

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Part of Garden Path Fermentation’s foudre collection

Garden Path’s production space holds a variety of oak barrels and vats of different sizes, many of which are already full. To date, they have made five batches of wort at Chuckanut. However, because much of their process involves dividing batches, using different vessels and techniques, and then blending from various sources to taste, this will likely result in a different number of variations of finished beer that don’t directly correlate to batches brewed.

Lead Fermentationist Jason Hansen, who, before moving to Skagit, served as Head Brewer at Capitola, CA based Sante Adairius Rustic Ales, spent the better part of the last year cultivating Garden Path’s native yeast culture from the flowers, fruits, and air in Skagit Valley. It started with a collection of mason jars, which he then slowly grew and blended to make 5-gallon test batches. Those were then blended and used to make two initial 10-barrel (310 gallon) half-batches, before scaling up to Chuckanut’s full 20-barrel batch size.

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Active barrel fermentation

As the yeast is not a pure, isolated, laboratory strain, but rather a complex community of many different organisms, shifting and evolving over time, every batch is going to be somewhat different from the last, even if the same recipe, the same ingredients, and the same processes are used. While the conventional wisdom at most breweries is that this type of batch-to-batch variation is to be avoided, Garden Path embraces it, seeing the presentation of their products as a type of live performance, where the unique interplay of all of the various elements involved results in the creation of something with details and nuances that are unrepeatable and can only be appreciated fully in the moment. They see their role in the creative process not as exercising absolute control, but rather as creating the best possible conditions for fermentation and then ensuring quality through selection, blending, and curation of the finished products.

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Filling the Garden Path coolship

The individualized, performative nature of Garden Path’s fermentation process comes into play even more through a technique where, rather than cooling the wort quickly after boiling and adding it to active yeast, they instead transport it from Chuckanut while still hot and leave it to cool overnight in a broad, shallow, open stainless steel tank called a coolship. As it sits exposed to the cool nighttime air, it becomes inoculated with ambient, airborne microbes. In the morning, the naturally cooled and inoculated wort is transferred to oak barrels, where it will ferment very slowly over the course of several years. During that time, it may or may not develop tart, complex flavors that may or may not be enjoyable. Similar techniques are used by a small number of breweries around the world, most notably in Belgium’s Zenne Valley for a type of beer called lambic (a term that should only be used for beer made in this region). Those who have been doing it for multiple generations have been able to achieve a relatively high rate of success, but even the best of them may still end up having to dump about 10% or more of what they produce, in some cases after having aged it for several years. The year-round climatic conditions in Skagit are, at least on paper, nearly ideal for making this type of beer, which is part of what led Garden Path to choose this location. However, there are a lot of variables at play when embracing nature in this way, and no way to know for sure, other through time and ongoing experimentation, exactly how those variables will play out.

As the beer they’ve brewed matures, the Garden Path team will evaluate it continually to determine what each batch and each vessel needs. Some may benefit from aging, blending, more aging, and more blending. Others may be suitable to package just as they are, and still others may never make the cut. At the time of this writing, two 600-liter oak puncheons, pulled from the first and second brews, are beginning to show promise, so there’s a possibility that at least one of them will soon be transferred to bottles and/or kegs. Packaging will involve the addition of local honey, added just prior to kegging or bottling. The yeast will break down the honey inside the closed containers, trapping CO2 and naturally carbonating the finished product. Though this can happen in as little as a few days, the secondary fermentation process can also create some new, transitional flavors that may take several more weeks or months to work through. If Garden Path decides to package its first beer next week and all goes well, that beer might be ready to serve sometime next month. Then again, it may not be. The beer will be ready when it tastes ready.

When Garden Path feels the first of its products are ready to serve, they will host a release party and grand opening celebration. Look for details of that future event on its website at GardenPathWA.com or on Facebook, Instagram, and Twitter at @GardenPathWA.

 

 

All Systems Go!

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Great news, everyone–we have now passed all of our inspections and received our certificate of occupancy, which means we can now start fermenting beer, cider, perry, mead, wine, and other beverages on-site!  It also means that we can now open our tasting room to guests, which we’re doing on a very limited basis, starting with a friends and family/industry opening today from noon to 8pm, followed by a more public soft opening tomorrow from noon to 8pm.

We won’t be selling any of our own products, of course, seeing that we don’t yet have any that are ready to sell, but we will be offering a small, hand-picked selection of some of our favorite draft beers and ciders, wines by the glass, and bottles, available on-site and to-go, from small, independent, artisan producers around the world.

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Starting next weekend, we’ll be open Friday 4-8pm, Saturday 12-8pm, and Sunday, 12-8pm, with a somewhat expanded selection of beer, cider, and wine, as well as the addition of non-alcoholic beverages and pre-packaged snacks.  Additional days and hours will be added as soon as we finish up the last bit of site work that we need to do.

Please note that our tasting room is licensed as a Beer & Wine Tavern, with an Off-Premise endorsement, which means, unfortunately, that no one under 21 is allowed inside.  This restriction does not apply to our facility as a whole, which we will  open up for scheduled, family-friendly tours once we’re fully operational and all the dust has settled, literally.

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Meet Our New Team Members

As we get closer to opening—and, yes, we are getting very much closer to opening—we wanted to introduce you to the team members we’ve brought on board to help us grow up better and faster at Garden Path Fermentation. You’ve already met Jason Hansen, our Lead Fermentationist, and Saul Phillips, our Lead Agriculturalist, but here are the people who will be helping them farm and ferment.

Jacob Grisham

 

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As far as we can tell, Jacob has literally all the skills. He’s a former restauranteur and a general contractor, with a love of fermentation and some impressive cider certifications. Right now, he’s acting as our buildout rockstar, making our tasting room more beautiful than we could have ever imagined. Soon enough, though, we’ll get him in an orchard taking care of some apples and helping to make some Skagit cider and wine.

Star sign: Aquarius

Character class: Sorcerer

Secret superpower: Shiplap!

Favorite Monkee: Mike Nesmith

Desert island beer: Pacifico

 

Matthew Edwards

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Matthew comes to us with a very strong fermentation background, as a former senior brewer/cellerman at Allagash Brewing in Portland, Maine; lead brewer at Fremont Brewing in Seattle; and production manager at Kombucha Town in Bellingham. His real passion, though, is agriculture, and we’re excited about his vision for our farm acreage.

Star sign: Gemini

Character class: Cleric

Secret superpower: Ability to subsist entirely on good cheese

Favorite Monkee: Mickey Dolenz

Desert island beer: Jack’s Abby Hoponius Union

 

Sam Hutchens

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Sam has an extensive fermentation background, from several years as a cellerman and vineyard employee at Mount Baker Vineyards in Deming, Washington, to his current position as Assistant Brewer at Stone’s Throw Brewery in Bellingham. He has a wonderful palate and crazy mixed fermentation skills. Sam will be helping us out on the brew deck and in the cellar when he’s not at Stone’s Throw or fishing in Alaska.

Star sign: Gemini

Character class: Druid

Secret superpower: Fish whisperer

Favorite Monkee: Peter Tork

Desert island beer: De La Senne Taras Boulba

 

Scout Caldwell

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Scout is another multitalented individual, with a vast wine and beer retail history and some very amazing art skills. Before moving to Washington, she lived in Santa Cruz, California, where she worked at Sante Adairius Rustic Ales as a beertender and on the packaging team, as well as at Soif, where she honed her wine knowledge. She currently works behind the bar at Skagit’s Bastion Brewery. We’re looking forward to having her in the front of the house, as well as seeing her artwork come to life on our walls and in our merchandise.

Star sign: Aries

Character class: Ranger

Secret superpower: Cat poetry

Favorite Monkee: Davy Jones

Desert island beer: Schlenkerla Helles

 

Our Journey Down the Garden Path: Part III

by Amber Watts

This is part three of a four part series, originally published last August in the Fall 2017 Sci-Fi & Fantasy Issue of CRAFT by Under My Host.

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Cherries at the WSU Mount Vernon research orchard

August 2017

Last fall, I was the lucky recipient of a Pink Boots Society scholarship to attend a class at the Food Craft Institute in Oakland, CA called The Business of Beer. Over the course of a month, a small group of us future brewery owners toured and spoke candidly to the owners of countless Bay Area breweries about their startup stories. They gave us a wealth of incredibly valuable information about the myriad hurdles, setbacks, and successes each founder had encountered on his or her brewery’s journey. The two most common pieces of advice we received about opening a brewery, reiterated in some form by pretty much every speaker, were the following:

  1. Don’t open a brewery.”
  2. If you still want to open a brewery, remember that it will take twice as long and cost twice as much as you’ve planned.”

Clearly, my partner Ron and I are completely ignoring that first piece of advice in our quest to open Garden Path Fermentation. But the second piece of advice is one we unfortunately have come to heed. When we ventured from Austin, Texas to Skagit County, Washington last August, we’d planned on being open in some capacity by this summer.

It’s summer, and we’re not open.

Our dream is to open a destination farmhouse brewery/cidery/meadery/winery in this magical valley in Northwest Washington. We want to grow as many of our own ingredients as we can, work with local farmers to source everything we can’t grow ourselves, and make products that showcase the unique qualities of this region. Key to our vision is an onsite tasting room, where patrons can experience a complete seed-to-glass tasting experience, drinking beer and cider at their ingredients’ source, understanding and falling in love with the terroir of Skagit just as we have.

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Skagit Obsidian Barley

As we’ve learned, though, building this experience on a farm here in Skagit is much more difficult than we’d anticipated. We moved here from Texas, where beer laws are incredibly strict but there’s comparatively little regulation regarding rural land use; the opposite is true in Washington, which has some of the friendliest beer laws in the country but much more tightly regulated land and water usage. In our previous installment, Ron wrote about the zoning, water, and waste management issues that have hindered our location search to this point. Unfortunately, our second site also fell through, largely because of what turned out to be a lack of internal consensus among the sellers about whether they were actually ready to sell. Had it gone through, however, we would still have had to deal with the same zoning and septic issues as before, which would have inevitably turned into a long, expensive process. There may be a mystical place in the Valley that will allow us to do everything we want without having to face these issues, but if it does exist, it’s not currently for sale.

We’re not the only ones to have this experience in Northwest Washington. Other brewers with similar visions in the region have given up and started their projects elsewhere. Adam Paysse, one of the founders of Seattle’s Holy Mountain Brewing Company, recently started Floodland Brewing, the first solely mixed fermentation brewery in Washington. Floodland is located in Seattle instead of on a farm northwest of the city, as Adam had originally intended. He had found what seemed like a favorable site in a neighboring county last year, but was discouraged by a county representative who told him they looked very unfavorably on breweries opening in “non-commercial zoning,” and he likely wouldn’t be able to get permitting. Despite the extra expenses—Seattle’s not cheap, y’all—he felt it made a lot more sense to get started in the city and work on the farm down the line. The idea of opening a true farmhouse brewery seems like it should be possible, and welcomed, in Washington, a state that loves its beer just as much as its farms. But it’s far more difficult than it appears.

It’s definitely been difficult for us, and every setback has been disheartening. But we’ve also realized that in order to get open before burning through our entire operating budget and completely losing both our morale and our amazing team, we may have to consider a different type of site than we’d originally envisioned, at least at the start. At this point, we really just want to ferment stuff.

Our plan as it stands now is to lease a somewhat more industrial startup space where we can start making things, open a smaller-scale tasting room, and begin to establish ourselves while we work on building from the ground up on a long-term site. The startup space we’re currently looking at isn’t ideal in a number of ways, including the lack of a sloped floor or floor drains of any kind, and a building that, though surrounded by majestic Washington evergreens, isn’t exactly the most picturesque. However, we’ll be able to start a fermentation program there with minimal initial costs. In the meantime, we also plan to lease some nearby agricultural land to begin the process of growing some of our ingredients. While it’s disappointing that we won’t be able to make our entire vision a cohesive reality right away, we can at least make part of it: delicious, thoughtful Skagit beer, cider, wine, and mead.

The prospect of starting in a temporary space with little drainage, though challenging, is made somewhat more palatable for us than it would be for other brewers, since we plan on starting without a brewhouse. Instead, we’ll make our wort offsite and transport it to our facility in stainless steel totes, which will double as primary fermenters. While getting started, we’re also working with our friends at Skagit Valley Malting, which is actually a state and federally licensed brewery, to start making some test batches on their pilot system using their malt and our yeast.

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Some of the Skagit flowers from which we sourced our native microbes

And our yeast! We’re so excited about the yeast! Part of our goal at Garden Path has always been to ferment using only naturally cultivated yeast from the Valley for fermentation, and we’ve been experimenting with yeast capture since we first arrived. Unfortunately, our first capture experiments, involving mason jars of fresh hot wort left overnight in the orchard of our first, failed potential brewery site, only succeeded in capturing and cultivating mold. The failure could have resulted from previous spraying in the orchard, which would limit the amount of live active yeast and bacteria; alternatively, a cheesecloth-covered mason jar may not have offered enough surface area for happy yeast to gather. I prefer to see it as an omen, though, that it wasn’t the right site for our project.

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More lovely Skagit flowers

This spring, we tried again. On one beautiful April day when it felt like every square inch of the Valley was in bloom, Ron and I ventured out with Jason Hansen, our Lead Fermentationist, on a foliage mission. We picked one of every flower we saw—tulips, daffodils, cherry blossoms, dandelions, daisies, rhododendrons, and many “mysteries” from various Washington trees and gardens—and put them in mason jars and kegs of hot wort. That evening, a particularly windy night, we also left a batch of wort outside in a shallow pot overnight to capture wild yeast from the air. Over the next few months, Jason has been brewing small test batches and propping up yeast samples, working to develop what will become the basis of our initial signature Skagit culture.

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Cherries!

A few weeks ago, we put the yeast to its first real test. We went with our Lead Agriculturalist Saul Phillips to the cherry orchard at Washington State University’s Skagit agricultural extension and picked 50 or so pounds of cherries that Saul selected (mostly NY242, a slightly tart experimental variety). We pressed the cherries, pitched some of our favorite yeast cultures from Jason’s samples, and let the juice and must ferment. After primary fermentation, we racked our cherry wine off the fruit, which we then used, along with the yeast sediment, to start a batch of low-gravity second-use cherry mead.

And I’m so proud of what we’ve made. The wine is complex, slightly tart, slightly funky, and, despite being the most cherry-intense liquid I’ve ever tasted, incredibly easy to drink. The mead is gentle, with a clear honey and cherry character, but with that same yeast complexity. Both are very small batches, too small to release—even if we legally could—but if these are indicative of what we can make, I continue to be very excited about the future.

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The beginning of our first cherry wine.

This is why we’re willing to take a temporary detour on our site. We want to make world-class beer, wine, cider, and mead, and we want people to be able to drink it. It’s disheartening that they won’t be able to do so under a pavilion on a picturesque Washington farm right away, but we know that will come in time. This is a way to achieve at least part of the goal sooner rather than later. In the meantime, we’re following our own garden path, which, as we should have predicted, isn’t always taking us exactly where we’d anticipated. However, we’re pretty sure it’s leading us somewhere special. Via the scenic route.

 

Read the final installment of our story (for now) in the Winter “Classics” issue of  CRAFT by Under My Host .Image may contain: text

 

We've Found a Starter Home!

It’s been a process, folks.

If you’ve been following our progress in our quarterly updates in CRAFT by Under My Host or read the recent Draft magazine article about us, you know that our biggest challenge up to this point has been finding a location for our brewery. From the beginning, our dream has involved three aspects: creating a farm brewery, where we grow a large portion of our own ingredients; making beer, wine, cider, and mead solely from our own crops and other locally grown products; and building a tasting room where you and all your loved ones can enjoy a peaceful afternoon in the majestic Skagit countryside drinking all its fermented bounties. It sounds cheesy, but it’s also why we came here. Northwest Washington is one of the few places in the country, maybe the world, where everything you need to make beer grows naturally, with a gentle enough climate to support natural fermentation without temperature control. Skagit County has some of the best soil in the world in which to grow these ingredients, and it’s also always pretty damn beautiful here. We want to share this place we love with the rest of the world, through our products, and by inviting everyone to our tasting room to experience it themselves.

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It’s not really a post about Skagit without a picture of tulips. True story.

We’ve been in the Skagit Valley for a year now, but finding a location that will allow us to achieve all three of our goals in the same place—farming, fermenting, and operating a tasting room—has proven difficult. While Washington State beer laws are incredibly friendly to small breweries, water rights, wastewater, and zoning issues make it very difficult to make beer and operate a tasting room on agricultural land here. Finding a place to grow, brew, and cater to the public all in the same space, while obeying the letter and spirit of the law, has been virtually impossible.

But we’ve found a solution that will allow us to get started. One of our biggest supporters in the county, even before we arrived in Washington, has been the Port of Skagit, a county entity that not only controls actual ports, but is also one of the biggest economic development engines in the area. The Port has been a dream to work with, and we’ve been in discussions for a while about a Port-owned parcel of land that has industrial zoning but will be farmable with a bit of work. The land has access to all utilities—including water and sewer!—but the downside is that it’s vacant. We’ll have to build out from scratch. Building in Washington is definitely seasonal. By the time we had started the discussions, the earliest we could project a fully functional newly built space would be late 2018, and that’s with everything going perfectly according to schedule. Which never happens.

The clear advantage is that a from-scratch buildout would allow us to create our perfect space. However, we’ve built an amazing team and a lot of momentum at this point. Waiting an extra year and half to open would be incredibly disheartening for all of us, and might cause us to lose both.

But the Port, being amazing, has offered us a perfect interim solution. There’s a newly vacant building in their airport complex—which also houses such inspiring entities as Chuckanut Brewery, Skagit Valley Malting, Viva Farms, the Washington State University Bread Lab, Skagit Valley College’s Cardinal Craft Brewing Academy, and the Skagit outpost of Flyers Restaurant and Brewhouse. It’s a site that’s becoming a food and beer mecca. Which, it looks like, will now include Garden Path Fermentation. Not to bury the lede, but we signed a lease last week.

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Ron, signing a lease.

The space itself isn’t what we initially imagined. It’s an industrial building, formerly home to a graphic design and screenprinting company. We’ll need to repurpose what is currently a less-than-cozy office space to create a tasting room, and there are definitely no brewery infrastructure necessities like floor drains. But there’s plumbing, septic, and three-phase power. There’s a 5,000 square foot building. A wooded lot. Parking. Bathrooms. Room for a small beer garden. It’s a space where, with only a little work, we can get started. We’ll cut floor drains. We’ll paint walls and rip out office carpeting to create a tasting room. Since we don’t plan to make wort onsite, we don’t need to do quite as much infrastructural work as we would if we had a brewhouse.

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It may not look super exciting now–but wait.

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Future barrel room

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Future (soon to be much more inviting) tasting room

There’s work to be done, clearly. But with this space, it looks more and more like, as Ron and I promised when we left Jester King, we may still be open in some capacity sometime in 2017. Really. We almost can’t believe it, either.

We’re still working out the details of the lease for the industrial/agricultural land, but we expect that to happen sometime in the next few weeks. This will allow us (well, mostly Saul, our Lead Agriculturalist) to start taming the land and creating soil amenable to a cider apple/perry pear orchard (and potentially a hop farm?) as soon as possible. But at this point, our plan still remains to build something much closer to our dream brewery on that site.

This does present a clear challenge for us, though. Building out on the vacant parcel means our time in the startup space will almost certainly be limited. Which also means our renovations will need to be limited, just enough to get us started with both a brewery and a tasting room. We don’t want to blow our entire startup budget on renovations to this space, when the money can instead go to building our dream Skagit barn/brewery. With that said, we are still going to have to devote some time, energy, and money to getting up and running in our initial space, which may push our timetable for building the new space back a bit.

But it does mean we can get started! We can make beer, wine, cider, and mead with the fantastic native Skagit microbes Jason, our Lead Fermentationist, has been cultivating over the past year! Very soon, we will be able to invite you to drink it (We’ve already put in our federal brewery and winery permit applications)! And that, ultimately, is the most important thing for us. We’ve been itching to stop making financial projection spreadsheets and start fermenting delicious things for y’all to drink. This is our chance. Real-life dreams don’t happen overnight, and we’re doing what we can to realize ours sooner rather than later.

To quote our latest article in CRAFT, “We’re following our own garden path, which, as we should have predicted, isn’t always taking us exactly where we’d anticipated. However, we’re pretty sure it’s leading us somewhere special. Via the scenic route.”

Thank you all for your support while we have inadvertently taken the scenic route. We hope that as Garden Path Fermentation continues to grow, the “scenic route” will begin to apply more to our beverages than our building, but we hope you continue to enjoy the journey.

 

Our Journey Down The Garden Path: Part II

by Ron Extract

This is part two of a four part series, originally published in the Summer 2017 “Kung Fu” Issue of CRAFT by Under My Host.

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Tulip Town, Skagit Valley, Washington

May 2017

Spring is a magical time in Washington’s Skagit Valley. Expansive emerald fields surround rows of brightly colored tulips and daffodils with views of the snow-capped Cascade Mountains to the east and the San Juan Islands to the west. It’s easy to understand how a place like this could inspire the sort of romantic dream that led my partner, Amber Watts, and I to come here to start Garden Path Fermentation. We imagined our own stretch of farmland, where we could grow and cultivate grains, hops, honey, and fruit, which native microflora would slowly transform into delicious beer, mead, cider, perry, and wine that we would age, curate, blend, and ultimately present to guests on the land from which those ingredients had sprung. Our focus remains firmly fixed on this vision, but as we have begun to make our way toward it, we’ve also gained a clearer perspective of some of the obstacles that could stand in our way.

Part of our long-term vision also involves transforming local agricultural products into food, which we see as an integral component of the type of agritourism destination that we hope to build. Whether this is something that the county considers an allowable use of what it has designated Agricultural Natural Resource Land, however, remains something of an open question. The Skagit County Code specifically allows for agricultural accessory use, including “activities associated with tourism which promote local agriculture.” Although there are many residents and public officials within the county who support our project, there are also those who are nervous about applying the provision in this way. We had begun what could have a been a six-month long process to seek an official ruling from the county about whether this was something that we would be allowed to do at our prospective site. Unfortunately, for reasons having nothing to do with zoning, the process has not yet made it that far.

When moving to northwest Washington from central Texas, water availability is not something that we had initially given a great deal of thought. Even in a place with a relative abundance of rain, however, seasonal and annual variations can have a significant impact on the water level in area rivers, streams, and lakes, which, in turn, can affect the habitat of local fish and wildlife, causing ripple effects on the surrounding ecosystem. In order to safeguard against this, the state Department of Ecology has put a number of rules and regulations in place, including an Instream Flow Rule, specific to the Skagit River Basin, enacted in 2001. This rule was modified in 2006, following a challenge by Skagit County, but then bolstered in 2011 in response to a successful lawsuit by the Swinomish Tribe. The end result is a complex regulatory framework that can be more difficult to navigate than the rivers and streams it’s designed to protect, leaving many local landowners uncertain as to what is and is not allowed. When we first began our property search, our attorney warned us that water rights were something that we needed to be aware of and look into, so we made a point to inquire about them prior to entering into a contract. It wasn’t until much later, however, that we began to comprehend the complexity of the issue and realized that, although the property did have the right to draw from an onsite well, that right did not extend to our intended use. We considered alternatives such as rainwater collection, trucking in municipal water, or even connecting to the nearest water supply but, unfortunately, none of these proved viable, and the lack of available water ultimately left us no choice but to opt out of our contract during the feasibility contingency phase and to look for another site.

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The Upper Skagit River, North Cascades National Park

Zoning issues aside, if water availability hadn’t killed the deal on what we’d thought would be our location, wastewater handling very well might have. Municipal sewers in Skagit County don’t extend far beyond the main city centers, which, themselves, are quite small. Everything else relies on onsite septic. We had dealt with a septic system in Texas, but as is the case with water sourcing, the rules pertaining to wastewater treatment and disposal are different here. When we began looking into what we would need to do in order to make it work, the recurring piece of advice that we received was not to bother and to look for something on a public sewer system instead. As heeding this advice in Skagit County would almost certainly mean sacrificing the agricultural character and setting that brought us here in the first place, we looked further into what the alternative would entail. We discovered it would mean at least $60K to upwards of $600K of additional infrastructure, depending on the specifics of the site. At a certain point, not far from the low end of that range, this quickly starts to become less than feasible, given both the budget with which we have to work and the projected cash flow, once we’re up and running.

Waste management is perhaps the least romantic thing that one needs to think about when planning to open a brewery, but it is something that needs to be addressed, regardless of what size brewery you’re going to open, or where it’s going to be. As it stands, there are certainly plenty of breweries that wash everything from sour beer to hot caustic to grain down the drain without giving significant thought to its impact, and plenty of municipalities that allow them to do so, but this is something that is quickly starting to change. King County, which encompasses Seattle, the city with the most breweries of any in the U.S., recently instituted new regulations requiring any breweries producing 3000 or more barrels per year or going through 1000 gallons or more of wastewater per day to sidestream and treat its wastewater before sending it into the public sewer. More such regulations are likely to follow. Even with rules requiring pretreatment of municipal sewage become increasingly common, however, working with self-contained, onsite septic systems still presents an additional layer of complication and expense that breweries would do best to avoid, if they can.

“Finding what we think will be an ideal location was a relief,” Amber wrote in our last installment. Realizing that that location was not ideal and ultimately having to walk away from it, six months after we first came across it and three months after entering into a contract, and then having to start all over again, came as a serious blow. Building on an industrial site with appropriate zoning and all the necessary public utilities would certainly make our lives a lot easier, but it also wouldn’t have the character we’re looking for and wouldn’t be the agritourism destination farm brewery/cidery/meadery/winery that we came here to build. Even if we were to go the industrial route, that’s still no guarantee that we wouldn’t face some of the same issues. While discussing the loss of our initial site, Chad Kuehl of Wander Brewing in Bellingham told us: “Finding a location is no doubt the most difficult and stressful part of opening a brewery. One would never think that is the case, but it was for us, and I have heard others say the same. We were fairly far along on four other sites (letters of intent signed), and they all fell through before our current site worked out.” Discouraging as it is to consider, the same could easily happen to us, and is perhaps more likely to happen to us, given the more difficult path we’ve chosen to take.

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Diablo Lake, Upper Skagit River, Washington

We’ve put in an offer on another site, more centrally located than the first, on a stretch of fertile farmland in the heart of the valley, with classic Skagit views. It’s on municipal water, thus alleviating any concern regarding water rights, but like the original property, it’s zoned as Agricultural Natural Resource Land and relies on onsite septic, so even if the current owners accept our offer, those are still issues with which we’ll have to contend.

When we first announced our project, we said that we would be opening sometime in 2017. At the time, we thought that gave us a nice buffer and were, in our own minds, thinking that we would most likely be up and running by spring. Now spring is drawing to a close, and we still find ourselves without a definitive site, hoping, somewhat optimistically, that we’ll have one and be able to start brewing by the end of the year. Meanwhile, well-meaning friends and industry colleagues continue to ask, “How’s the new project coming along?”, and, fending off the initial sting of the question, we continue to answer, “Slowly but surely, we’re making progress,” hoping that indeed we are. Fortunately, we have a plan to keep things moving forward, even if our current prospective site doesn’t work out. More on that next time.

Continue to Part III on our blog

Or read it in the Fall  2017 “Fantasy/Sci-Fi” issue of CRAFT by Under My Host.21457441_1449297701817068_2607881550985896646_o

Our Journey Down the Garden Path

Part I:: Adventures in Brewery Startup

by Amber Watts

This is the first of a four part series, originally published in the Spring 2017 “Spaghetti Western” Issue of CRAFT by Under My Host.

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Amber Watts and Ron Extract, not in Washington

February 2017

Last summer, my life and business partner Ron Extract and I made a very bittersweet announcement: we would be leaving our positions at Jester King Brewery in Austin, Texas to start our own project, a destination farm brewery/cidery/meadery/winery in the Pacific Northwest, later to be known as Garden Path Fermentation. In August, we moved from Texas to Skagit County, Washington, and began our startup adventures.

We had already decided to build our brewery in Skagit before we’d ever set foot here. The Skagit Valley, nestled between the North Cascades and the Puget Sound, has a rich agricultural history and is home to some of the most fertile soil on the planet. When we arrived, we were greeted by the lushest, most beautiful landscape we’ve ever seen—which, for us, was a welcome contrast from the hot, dusty Texas summer we left behind. On our first day in Washington, we repeatedly had to pull over to take in the view while driving down a mountain road. There were more colors and textures in a 10-foot radius of our rental car than it seemed there were in all of Texas that summer.

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Deception Pass, Oak Harbor, Washington

Our inspiration for Garden Path began during our years at Jester King, where Ron was a managing partner, and I helped run the tasting room and the front office. Jester King, located on ranchland about 20 minutes outside of Austin, Texas, focuses on making beer with a “sense of place,” using as many local ingredients as possible, including water from an onsite well, grain from an independent Central Texas maltster, and, what they’re most famous for, a mixed culture of native yeast and bacteria used in all fermentation. Texas, however, doesn’t necessarily offer the most hospitable climate for making beer with local ingredients. It’s too far south for most hops to thrive, there isn’t much barley grown in-state, and the expense of keeping a large barrel room cool enough to keep acetobacter at bay during a southwestern summer is pretty daunting. It’s also not the best political climate in which to make beer. The legislative battles we had to fight in order to function as a small brewery were constant and difficult, and small independent breweries in Texas still have unique state restrictions that limit their ability to grow and succeed.

Our decision to leave Jester King wasn’t an easy one. We’re incredibly proud to have been part of such an amazing project and to have had a hand in shaping its growth. At a certain point, though, we felt it was time to move on. Ron, in particular, had spent the bulk of his career in the beer industry helping others build their dreams; it was time for us to build our own.

Starting a brewery from scratch is terrifying. But it’s also terribly exciting, especially when you have no boundaries. We weren’t tied to Texas, by any means, which meant that we could start our project anywhere in the world. Our vision in our earliest planning phases, well before our first trip to Washington, was to develop an estate brewery. We dreamed of growing all of our ingredients—grains, hops, and fruit—onsite, and fermenting using only wild yeast we’d cultivated from our land. We wanted to move somewhere fertile with a mild climate, to limit the need for temperature control during fermentation. We wanted to be in a place where all our ingredients would grow happily, and with laws friendly to craft brewers. There aren’t that many places in the world, let alone the United States, with those conditions, but the Pacific Northwest seems almost designed for brewing, and Washington in particular, unlike Texas, has some of the friendliest beer laws in the country. Skagit Valley came onto our radar in large part thanks to Skagit Valley Malting, a wonderful maltster working with local farmers to develop flavorful heritage grain varietals for brewing, distilling, and baking. SVM’s founder, Wayne Carpenter, is perhaps the Valley’s best spokesman; it’s hard to imagine anyone not wanting to move to Skagit after talking to him for twenty minutes. It wasn’t only the malt that sold us, though—it was the extremely fertile soil, the unique temperate microclimate, the produce, the mountain views, and the rich agricultural history of the Valley that made it hard to imagine a more perfect place for a destination farm brewery. The first time we set foot in the Valley, we knew it was the right place for our vision.

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Skagit Valley, Washington

We hadn’t been in Skagit more than a few days, though, when our vision shifted. The more we learned about the Valley and the family farms that constitute the backbone of Skagit agriculture, the more we realized that our plan to grow all our ingredients ourselves was not only unnecessary, but somewhat arrogant. If farmers in Skagit have been growing barley for five generations, why would we—former East Coast academics with no farming background—be able to do it better? Instead, we realized that the focus of Garden Path Fermentation should be Skagit ingredients. While we still want to grow some ingredients ourselves, particularly cider apples and Perry pears, which aren’t grown commercially in the Valley. And we’re equally excited about working with local farmers to source some of the best ingredients in the world—because we’re in a place where we can. Being able to use the bounty of natural resources surrounding us, being able to source the most beautiful grains and fruit from small family farms, and being able to bring beer lovers to the Valley from Seattle and Vancouver—both an hour away—and beyond, was a way to tell the story of this beautiful place through fermentation. We want everyone to fall in love with Skagit as thoroughly as we have.

Finding a site that could serve as a destination has been our next challenge. We wanted to build in a place that captures the essence of Skagit, where we have space to ferment and farm, and where customers can have an unforgettable tasting room experience in a stunning location. Our original plans involved starting up in space owned by the Port of Skagit, another set of wonderful people who helped sell us on the Valley, which would give us time to find our perfect destination location while still being able to produce beer. However, a few weeks into our Skagit adventure, we saw a property for sale that changed our plans: A lush working farm with breathtaking mountain views, fruit trees, and some of the infrastructure we’d need to start up. We changed course and put in an offer, which was accepted right before the New Year.

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LaConner, Washington

Finding what we think will be an ideal location was a relief, but there’s a lot to do before we’ll have a brewery. We’re still working on financing; we’re trying to start the project solely through bank loans—and convincing bankers that a boutique, small-batch destination brewery is viable (even though we helped run one successfully before) has been a harder sell than anticipated. We’re still in the feasibility period of our real estate offer, and still trying to figure out if the septic and water systems in place on the farm can support our project, and if the county will allow us to operate a tasting room on agricultural land. Plus, the average turnaround time for TTB approval of a new brewery license is currently just shy of six months. Meanwhile, we already have a wonderful Lead Fermentationist—Jason Hansen, formerly from Sante Adairius Rustic Ales—and other future employees waiting in the wings, and we’re antsy to stop making financial projection spreadsheets and start making beer. These are the adventures that aren’t quite as fun as fermentation, but we’re pretty sure they will make everything else worthwhile in the end.

Continue to Part II on our blog

Or read it in the Summer 2017 “Kung Fu” issue of CRAFT by Under My Host.

Meet Garden Path Fermentation's Lead Agriculturalist, Saul Phillips

Our mission at Garden Path Fermentation is to make delicious fermented beverages (and maybe foods, someday) using the abundant agricultural resources available to us here in the Skagit Valley, including some ingredients that we plan to grow ourselves.  To do this most effectively, we will need someone who knows the land, what grows here, and how it grows, and who can work with farmers throughout the valley to help us find the best possible ingredients with which to work.  That person will be our Lead Agriculturalist, Saul Phillips.

Photo of Garden Path Fermentation Lead Agriculturalist Saul Phillips

Garden Path Fermentation Lead Agriculturalist Saul Phillips

We first met Saul in October while visiting the WSU Extension Campus in Mount Vernon, where he currently works, helping tend to their research orchard, which includes more than 70 varietals of cider apples, 15 varieties of perry pears, and numerous other fruit trees.  When Saul, an accomplished amateur cidermaker and homebrewer, began telling us about his ideas for commercial production of spontaneously fermented cider and perry, we immediately knew that we had much more to discuss.  As part of our team, Saul will also continue to spend a portion of his time assisting with the WSU orchard and will serve as liaison between Garden Path Fermentation and the WSU Extension. By fostering this relationship, we will develop our goal of being involved in community education and outreach here in the Skagit Valley. 

 

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Saul working with native Skagit Valley yeast

Saul’s interest in cider and perry led him to attend this year’s Cider Con in Chicago, where he had an opportunity to network, taste cider, and exchange ideas with cidermakers and other industry professionals from all over the world.  He offered the following thoughts: 

 

At Cider Con 2017, held this year in Chicago, IL, I got a chance to taste a broad range of ciders. While mixed culture and wild fermentation were a predictably small share of the industry, they were some of the most inspiring examples of cider craft. Considering America’s muddled relationship with cider where many examples on the market are essentially alcoholic soda, we can learn a great deal from our European brethren whose spontaneously fermented cider tradition continues unbroken by any past dalliance with alcohol prohibition.

An especially interesting area of research from Dr. Bradshaw’s lab at the University of Vermont is looking at the commercial viability of minimal pruning, a low-input strategy that jives well with our plans for minimal input, sustainable poly-culture on the land at Garden Path. I look forward to more definitive results over the next few years of the study.

Cider Con gave me a useful view of the cider market and producer strategies. Our plans for Garden Path, wild fermentation and sustainable poly-culture agriculture, fly in the face of the status quo, and I welcome the challenge! Since helping to press juice from my grandmother’s apple orchard as a child, I’ve been an apple aficionado and very much look forward to highlighting in fermentation the unique qualities of fruit grown here in the bountiful Skagit Valley.

Jason Hansen Joining Garden Path Fermentation

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We are thrilled to announce that Jason Hansen, formerly of Sante Adairius Rustic Ales in Capitola, California, will be joining Garden Path Fermentation as our Lead Fermentationist. We’re incredibly lucky to be able to bring him on board. Jason has spent the last three years as Head Brewer at SARA, where he oversaw an extensive mixed fermentation and barrel program, and, frankly, made some of our favorite beers in the world. Jason’s vast experience creating and brewing both complex-yet-approachable clean beers as well as delicate, nuanced barrel-aged mixed fermentations makes him the ideal person to head up Garden Path’s fermentation program. He’ll be in charge of our beer, wine, cider, and mead production, and we can’t wait to see what he’ll do with the amazing fermentables in Skagit Valley.

Welcome to Garden Path Fermentation

GPF LogoBrewing industry veterans Ron Extract and Amber Watts will be opening Garden Path Fermentation, a destination farmhouse brewery, cidery, meadery, and winery, in Skagit County, Washington in 2017.

The goal of Garden Path Fermentation is to produce hand-crafted beer, cider, wine, mead, and other fermented products that showcase the natural resources of the beautiful Skagit Valley, nestled between the North Cascades and the Pacific Ocean, and home to some of the most fertile soil on earth. Barley, apples, pears, grapes, hops, and berries all thrive in Skagit’s climate, and the abundant assets in the area—including craft maltster Skagit Valley Malting and a bounty of generations-old small family farms—make it possible for Garden Path Fermentation to source the vast majority of its ingredients solely from the Valley. All products will be fermented with a mixed culture of naturally occurring microbes cultivated from the brewery site and will take advantage of the temperate year-round climate of northwest Washington to minimize the need for temperature control during fermentation while showcasing the region’s distinct seasons.

Garden Path Fermentation’s co-creators, Ron Extract and Amber Watts, have a long history in the brewing industry. Most recently, they were at Jester King Brewery in Austin, TX, where Ron was an owner and managing partner, and Amber helped manage the tasting room and front office. While it was inspiring to be part of the team that helped Jester King grow into a world-class farmhouse brewery, Ron and Amber were ready to start their own project from the ground up.

The name Garden Path Fermentation stems from the idea that a garden path is an indirect way to get from Point A to Point B. It’s the scenic route that, more likely than not, leads you somewhere unexpected. Mixed-culture products take time to ferment, and tend toward complex, interesting flavor profiles that may be surprising to the palate; they’re fermentation’s way of taking you “down the garden path” to a place you may not have thought you’d end up. The name was also partially inspired by Ron and Amber’s appreciation of “garden path sentences”—sentences that initially appear incomplete or nonsensical, but that, when interpreted correctly, are actually completely coherent and grammatically correct.

Garden Path’s logo was created in collaboration with and illustrated by Skagit Valley artist and designer R. Ben Turpin, whose other work can be seen on his website at www.rbenturpin.com.

There will be exciting news about location, staffing, and timing in the very near future. Follow Garden Path Fermentation on Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram, or subscribe to the mailing list for further updates on the project. Please direct all press inquiries to info@gardenpathfermentation.com.